Monday, 1 April 2013

Painting Masterclass

People often ask me, "General Stylus, how do you keep maintain that copper-oxide, just-showered look for your hair?"

And as I rummage through my bag of Avon products, the conversation turns to the painting and sculpting of miniatures.

I haven't posted any painting updates for almost a month, and now I can reveal why: I've been working on painting a set of 40K Orks to the highest possible standard, so that I can now share these techniques with you.

Feast upon these pearls of wisdom. I know you'll find them useful.

Pro Tip 1
There is much talk about drybrushing and highlights, but if you stick to three or four really strong colours, you can get a professional look with just one heavy coat of paint.

Adding light and shade? That's what the sun is for!

Pro Tip 2
Painting the details banners can be difficult for a novice. Luckily, a biro, a photocopier and a felt-tip pen can achieve the same effects for a fraction of the effort.

Adding depth to white layers can also be tricky, but slapping on thick coat of wood varnish helps to add tone.

It will also weather-proof your miniatures for up to five years.

Pro Tip 3
That isn't an ink job giving depth and detail to their bolters - I didn't shake the jar of metal paint and it came out watery.

I also forgot to add paint the the bases (material acquired from toy sandpit).

Pro Tip 4
Securing the sand to your base can be a tricky prospect. I recommend globbing lots of paint on top of the base until it really adheres.

And as for adding details around teeth and eyes - it's back to our old friend the felt-tip pen!

Pro Tip 5
If you look closely, you may notice that those horns were not part of the original model. They have been cunningly fashioned with plasticine and glued in place.

The thumbprint the central model's horn is deliberate artist's signature

I humbly accept this Golden Daemon award.

1 comment:

  1. My god, that takes me back.

    My banners used to be mounted on cocktail sticks, then planted in a heap of blutack on the model's base. No cumbersome drilling of hands for me, thanks.